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TV chef Paul Merrett has landed
in a corner of London that's so pretty and bucolic, all
cherry trees frothing round desirable properties, you can
hardly believe you're within coughing distance of the A3.
His gastropub, The Victoria, is just as pretty, crammed
with looted-up locals (mostly ladies, oozing that particularly
west London affluent smugness. Credit crunch my a***). Looks
like moving out of the centre has been a smart move.
With its leather sofas and statement wallpaper, it may
look slightly hackneyed but the menu and wine list are pure
class
Duck, mulchy black pudding and fat, buttery mushrooms with
a perfectly weeping egg on top make a stunning salad, the
delicious antithesis of healthy.
Another starter offers fine cured ham, seared halloumi
with thyme honey and a shot glass of pomegranate 'gazpacho'.
Fresh mackerel comes with beetroot and horseradish relish
and addictive 'thrice cooked' chips.
A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about
£90.
Marina O'Loughlin
See the website at:
www.metro.co.uk |