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Since being coined a few years
back, the term gastropub has been banded about far too readily,
as if serving more than two types of potato were suddenly
the height of haute cuisine. Thank goodness then for the
likes of The Victoria, which is backed by restauranteur
Greg Bellamy and Michelin-starred chef Paul Merrett and
is most definitely the real McCoy.
The Venue
Combining the village inn with an upscale eatery is no easy
task, but Bellamy and Merrett (probably best known as the
presenter of the BBCs Ever Wondered About Food) pull it
off with aplomb. Set in the leafy suburbs of Sheen, far
from the madding crowd but not too far from Richmond Park,
The Victoria is a beautiful looking pub, adorned with a
timber-framed conservatory and simply but stylishly decorated
with reclaimed wooden furniture.
Although the conservatory is ostensibly the restaurant,
there is also a garden dining area beside which is a playground
for the gastronomes of the future. Inside space is very
open, with rooms flowing into one another, and customers
are actively encouraged to eat at the bar or drink in the
restaurant, breaking down the distinction between them.
The Atmosphere
Opening at 9am each morning to serve tea, coffee and homemade
cakes and biscuits, fresh flowers decorate the bar area,
which is also peppered with broadsheet papers. It’s
so relaxed and homely, you’ll barely notice that The
Victoria is also trying to capture the tourist trade with
seven double rooms.
In the summer months the pretty outdoor space draws in
the crowds, but log burners suggest it will be just as cosy
come the winter chill. The staff are extremely friendly,
attentive and, if anything, are a little too eager to please.
The Food
If feasting your eyes on a bar menu of shellfish bisque
tempts you into the restaurant, you won’t be disappointed.
For starters, the eel fillet with caramelised apple and
treacle cured bacon is shockingly delicious, smokey rather
than slippery, the basil and apple dressing teasing out
the sweetness. The hors d’oeuvres are like miniature
works of art on the plate, but thankfully there’s
nothing miniature about the portions, which are a perfectly
satisfying precursor to the main course.
The meat and fish-dominated entrees are more orthodox,
although not without the odd twist such as the pairing of
lamb and haloumi. If there’s a clear fault with The
Victoria it’s that vegans are poorly catered for,
never more so than when the sun is shining and, to the joy
of red-blooded carnivores, the patio barbeque is fired up
to be loaded with lobster and ribeye steak. Veggies can
take a crumb of comfort in the deer in Richmond Park remaining
safe - despite the boast that produce is sourced locally
where possible, venison is not on the menu - although with
regular changes, plus daily specials, dishes are variable.
For those that can stretch to three courses (and at £25-£45
per person, the burgeoning waistline is perhaps more of
an issue than the dwindling bank balance), the sticky banana
pudding with butterscotch sauce and rum and raisin ice cream
is the most seductive option. After retiring to the bar
for an Irish coffee you’ll feel like checking in for
the night; breakfast’s at 7am.
The Drink
Olly Smith is responsible for sourcing the wine, and if
that name sounds familiar it’s because Olly’s
resident expert of Richard and Judy’s Wine Club. No
harm in roping in celebrity mates when pitching at their
core audience. The wine list contains a handy précis,
which is great if you don’t know your pinot from your
pais, and all varieties are sold by the glass as well as
the bottle so it’s set up for enthusiasts wishing
to educate their palette. Cuvee Leduc is the affordable,
crisp and tangy house white.
Wine aside, the choices are mostly of the old fashioned
stock such as single malt whiskies and distilled gin, with
not much call for alcopops and shooters here, although cocktails
are available - perhaps as a concession to local ladies
who like to lunch.
The Last Word
This is a boutique pub that is sure to become a home from
home for the affluent residents of Sheen. And for those
of you who’ve never heard of Sheen, The Victoria makes
this green and pleasant part of South London worth discovering.
See the website at:
www.viewlondon.co.uk |
