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Judging by his
new set-up in leafy Sheen, chef Paul Merrett has had enough
of the hurly-burly of central London kitchens. But if he’s
looking for a quiet life, he’s not going to find it
at The Victoria – an appealing pub & conservatory
restaurant-with-rooms in a residential enclave near Richmond.
The menu borrows from the Mediterranean
& beyond, but the emphasis is on balanced combinations,
as in pan-fried manouri cheese & shards of Teruel ham
laced with fragrant wild thyme honey. The same confidence
keeps main courses pared back. Chicken escalope is embellished
only with rocket & cherry tomatoes, while a dish of
chorizo, squid & chickpeas highlights Spanish influences.
Chilled mango soup with creamy yoghurt & lemongrass
sorbet really shines at dessert.
A fashion-conscious wine list mirrors the
diversity of the menu & offers excellent value by the
glass. Alternatively, Timothy Taylor Landlord & London
Pride are on tap.
See the website at:
www.squaremeal.co.uk |
